On the 17th of August, we headed out to the Dolomites, this time accompanied by our good friend from the Basque Country, Ion Gurutz who had been looking forward to climbing in the area for a few years.
Our initial plan was simple- try as many on-sights as possible in two weeks.
We travelled for a day and a half to reach the Tre Cima di Lavaredo, our first stop. On the following day we awoke late as we were tired from the trip, and decided to do a short route on the Cima Piccolísima. We opted for Da Corte Vecchino (7C+/220m) which would serve as a first contact with the unusual rock of the dolomites. We are back quickly, and we plan what to do over a beer.
Ion fancies a go on a route on the Cima Grande, but the forecast is quite bad, with storms from midday. We chose Le Voici del Coro(7C/550m). Throughout the climb we kept an eye on the clouds as things were looking ugly. Nevertheless, we decided to crack on to the summit, and missed the storm that arrived later by a miracle.
Al día siguiente amanece gris y con riesgo de agua, descanso obligado. Tras descansar, estamos listos de vuelta para la batalla. Nos toca la Cima Oeste, una de las últimas aperturas de esta cima, la maravillosa “PRESSKNOL” 7C/400m que nos hace luchar de lo lindo para conseguirla. Se trata de una vía abierta por los fuertes escaladores locales Kurt Asnert y Cristof Haimz.
Parece que el verano ha tocado a su fin, las temperaturas bajan vertiginosamente. Tras la escalada de la cima oeste nos despertamos doblados pero decidimos intentar escalar algo rápido ya que la previsión a una semana es mala.
The next day broke with grey skies and rain forecast- enforced rest for us then. After resting up, we were ready for battle. This time we went for the Cima Oeste, and one of the last routes to be opened on the peak- the wonderful Pressknol (7C/400m). We had to fight like mad to ‘scend it. It was opened by the two local climbers Kurt Asnerrt and Cristof Haimz.
It looks like the summer is coming to an end, and the temperatures a in free-fall. After the climb on the Cima Oeste we woke tired, but given the terrible forecast for the coming week we decided to try a quick route.
This time its the turn of the Cima Piccola, but we found a lot of people on the route we intended to try and so headed for Otzi Trffi Yeti (7ª/300m), which I already climbed with Eneko.
The bad forecast turned out to be correct, and so we had to make alternative plans for the rest of the week. We took advantage of the time to visit our friends at La Sportiva, and have a look around Bolzano.
The rain finally gives way, and we can head back to the Tre Cima. The weather still isn’t great though, with cold temperatures and even a little frost during the nights. There is even some snow on the summits.
We are still really motivated though, and we decide to try the alpine route Alpenliebe (7C/550m) on the Cima Oeste. We began the climb in 0ºC-weather in the hope that the temperature would improve during the day, but it scarcely rose a few degrees. The cold really made us suffer, but we got to the summit feeling satisfied and tired. We had to descend in the dark, so it was just as well we knew the route well.
As we began to run out of days, we decided to changes locations and investigate the famous rock of Tofana di Rozas which is a little further south. We only do two routes though, starting with the very elegant Sognando l’Aurora (7b+/600m), and finally the Pozzo Vecchio Pozzo (7c/300m) brought our Italian sojourn to a close.
So all in all it was a short but very intense trip to this wonderful part of the world. We now have to go home, but the trip is made easier by planning our next outing!